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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.